2011年12月9日星期五

Reveal The Secret of Ultra-thin Movements

Ultra-thin movement challenges the limits of watchmaking, is part of the watch factory is committed to R & D models. In a very thin space into all kinds of small parts, or even a complex mechanism or module, while the performance of a thin sheet, but also to show the art Loudiao, which is the highest performance of watch technology, it is Yiping collectors dream collection.

Piaget Altiplano series ultra-thin watches-1

Piaget Altiplano watch equipped with 1208P series of ultra-thin ultra-thin self-winding movement

Production of ultra-thin movement difficult, more difficult to repair

In the end what the standard size is ultra-thin movement? Currently there is no standard specification. I customized a standard, I believe this is a more reasonable and acceptable is the number of brands: manual winding movement is less than 2mm, 3mm self-winding movement in within the quartz movement in within 1mm. Movement to do a thin, whole pieces of the movement from the beginning to be a comprehensive design considerations, such as the width of the barrel and spring, until gears, escapement, and then on the chain, as well as with the face plate, pointer with the other. Since it is a thin movement, of course, the case is ultra-thin design are required to consider the level of a very wide range, that is making it very difficult, not usually watch factory can be easily done.

Production of ultra-thin movement difficult, in the maintenance of relatively technically more advanced than the general specifications of the movement, especially in the assembly and adjustment skills. Although the ultra-thin movement with superb technology, but the author from another perspective, the production of ultra-thin movement is asking for trouble. Will to a hand-winding movement, for example, 2mm and 2.5mm thin movement into the case after worn on the wrist can feel it different? Thin high precision movement, the slightest shock could hurt the gear, because it's smaller, thin gear, gear shaft is relatively short, withstand greater impact, so the failure rate of natural high. Must be thin movement with a thin case, otherwise meaningless, too thin, water-proof case design it is necessary to sacrifice performance, even Godson diameter also reduced the daily action on the chain may also detract from its durable , these are ultra-thin movement of the fatal injury. Therefore it is necessary to thin, it must give up the advantages of durability, both difficult to choose. Long-term perspective, the thin movement warranty is not easy, Naicao lack of, or may affect the operation of mechanical loss of accuracy. Than the normal thickness of the movement is no such problem, how to choose the wisdom only by the user.

Automatic plate movement Earl 12P-2

Earl 12P 60 years the world's first mass production and is the thinnest mini-plate movement, the thickness of only 2.35mm, this record has not yet been broken

PIAGET replica 12P movement

Geneva Watch Fair in 2010, Earl engraved 12P movement, Vacheron Constantin 1003 movement is launched carrying the ultra-thin watches, this year two movements are very classic in the works. 12P launch in 1960 to the 1950s, mostly in the automatic sheet thickness 5-6mm of view, a thickness of only 2.35mm of 12P does have its own characteristics. The first generation of 12P using screw balance wheel, the vibration frequency of 19,800 times, the second generation is the ring balance wheel, shock frequency of 21,600 times. 12P chain on a quarter to two-way mini-disc to the chain mechanism, in order to achieve fast and smooth performance on the chain, automatic disk to a larger proportion of 24K gold as a material, both in the child there face. Very rare in the sixties with pure gold for the automatic plate material, even if the PP is only 18K gold, thin, very noble and honor to PIAGET scenery. However, 12P design has its shortcomings, it's automatic plate bearing shaft type and not the installation of a small ball of Ball Bearings, automatic plate of pure gold can not afford to let the axis, gradually with wear, while a small heavy automatic plate then there will be shaking phenomenon, which is probably the only missing. In addition, only the minute hand shows less second hand, the pointer can not be seen running and the passage of time, which is where the majority of consumers preferred design, but must give up some performance to thin.

PIAGET 1208P ultra-thin self-winding movement-3

Earl 1208P ultra-thin self-winding movement

This year engraved 1208P Movement thickness still is 2.35mm, but has improved the earlier shortcomings, the use of ball bearings and 22K gold automatic plate. But the movement of fine-tuning mechanism uses only the most common speed needle designed to PIAGET this great brand, there is some disappointment, at least have to fine-tune the system with the thread. 1977 Patek Philippe launched Cal.240, the thickness of 2.4mm. While this uses the same mini-disk thin automatic watch has been in use ever since, Patek Philippe is still the main force of the most thin models. Not only used in the two pointer watch, also equipped with a perpetual calendar mechanism. More than three decades of quenching chain competency. Although the chain on the 240 one-way design, but the weight of 22K with automatic plate with the chain mechanism properly, excellent performance on the chain, is very high-quality thin automatic movement.

Cal.240 automatic movement-4

Cal.240 the main effort in return for the current automatic movement, a thickness of 2.4mm, while for the one-way on the chain, but good performance on the chain

In 1996, Chopard 1.96 a quarter of the advent of the mini-plate movement into the tabulation of the peak. While this new development of the movement a thickness of 3.3mm, 3mm more than the author finds that the ultra-thin thickness of the movement, but there are other ultra-thin movement does not have double springs, rare mini-disc two-way on Chain performance and gooseneck tuning system. 1.96 and the Geneva Observatory also has dual certification mark is a very good movement. Most consumers will only Chopin positioning in the fashion brand, image, only Happy Diamond, brand marketing efforts have not, let Chopard LUC watches with the Geneva Seal the deal in the auction will be pitifully low price, brand value greatly reduced , a great pity.

Audemars Piguet automatic tourbillon movement-5

Audemars Piguet world's first automatic tourbillon movement Cal.2870 thickness 3.3mm, in order to watch the same slim, form the back is the substrate, showing exposed ruby, very special

In addition, using a large plate of ultra-thin automatic watch automatic movement, the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 is recognized as the most sophisticated design. Only by a Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin three brands in addition to the use of ultra-thin automatic movement, the biggest feature is the use of suspended barrel, the barrel hanging in the upper splint, compared to the general under the fixed axis of movement over the substrate, the more wear and tear does not cause winding axis. Meanwhile, the self-winding mechanism is very unique, automatic dial to a round metal bar fixed semi-circular disk automatically, automatically side with 21K gold plate as a material, can enhance the chain efficiencies; in the bottom there are four automatic vertical plate support from the round ruby, so rotation more smoothly, the design of this great critical acclaim. While thin thin automatic movement that can challenge watchmaking technology, thin but distinctive effect of the movement is the finishing touch. The underlying problem in the thin limit, if the injection of new design and creativity, remains deeply loved by the players.

Piaget 25P movement-6

Earl of 25P by the Lemania movement production, coupled with automatic plate total thickness of 2.08mm, is the world's truly the most reported automatic movement, but not durable, have long been replaced.

Ultra-thin manual winding movement devaluation Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin 2003 1003

Hand chain of ultra-thin movement devaluation Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin 2003 of 1003, the two movements are identical, in 1946 he first used by the love. This is so far being used in the thinnest manual chain models. Table of this year's Geneva show, Vacheron Constantin replica list that is equipped with 1003 hand movement, vibration frequency 18,000 times, at different temperatures five position adjustment, with the Geneva Seal. While this movement is very high quality, but the maintenance more difficult. Although only speed needle tuning, but equipped with screw balance wheel, a high level, is worthy of collection of the movement. While this movement as long as the unit price of the watch is certainly not low, as is a table had. In fact, both Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin 2003 or the 1003 movement, the early production designed by Jaeger-LeCoultre, JLC is a movement of factory original, often for large brands to provide quality movement. In 1994, Jaeger was an improvement for their own movement numbered 849, a thickness of 1.85mm, 19 stone, vibration frequency of 21 600, thickness, durability increase, in line with Naicao, low cost and maintenance requirements easier found in today's product family and the thin hands of the nations shall list, good reviews.

Piaget 25P movement -7

Piaget 25P movement equipped with ball-bearing group of more than a decade, called the most special and crazy design

Frederic Piguet movement factory also launched a FP 21 movement, its thickness is only 1.7 5mm, vibration frequency 21600,18 stone, is a high grade movement. So far are also equipped with two needles in a small number of watches, the other as Blancpain, there are the hands of the Kunlun chain of gold earlier also have to use the table. Lemania very thin movement Cal.1210, Cal. 2010 Although the ultra-thin movement first appeared in one hundred years of the pocket watch, and watch the ultra-thin movement in addition to several of these, the eighties have produced Lemania the "very thin" movement, machine numbers are manual winding section of the Cal.1210, a thickness of 1.2mm, and the self-winding Cal. 2010, thickness is 2.08mm, these two figures are as yet no other brand to break through. The record of a very thin surface of a very glorious, in fact, frequent failures, and maintenance easy, and end up into the clock of history, I believe there are many tables that two friends are not aware of the movement.

Piaget 25P movement -8

Earl 25P barrel by three groups of ball-bearing to the track to support the design of this genius never seen in the history of clocks

About ten years ago I bought a self-winding models (movement only), remove the self-winding mechanism was hand chain models. While this movement is really a crazy R & D, the former watchmakers these days, is now saying, "It's not even life are ignored." Just a little view, can be found in the movement of the design is not solid, the design of the logic that some divorced from reality. Only for the light, does not take into account the practical. Therefore, the record so far no other brands are interested to compete with it. High failure rate is too thin, movements and meaningless to the brand's image, durability and precision is crucial.

Vacheron Constantin 1003 movement with manual winding thin-9

Vacheron Constantin Historique Ultra-Fine 1955 ultra-thin sheet carrying ultra-thin manual-winding 1003 movement

Zero in 2050 to six years, Earl has introduced 9P and 12P ultra-thin hand-winding and automatic movement, we can imagine Earl thin sheet of a soft spot, so in the 1980s produced using thin Lemania movement. Cal.1210 in Earl's number 20P, Cal.2010 number 25P. Earl is really powerful, so slim 20P movement will carve into Loudiao movement can indeed included in the collection. Earl of use for some time due to poor evaluation is disabled after 1998 replaced by the homemade thin movement, equipped with its own formal movement into another era. Take the Earl of 20P, for example, to allow the movement thinner, in addition to across-type splint balance wheel design, only a single substrate, no general movement of the bridge table, so only seven ruby ​​(including balance part 5 and the messenger of the two), but with a group of ball bearings 13, is really so special; barrel floating, even to the triangle by three ball bearings to support the track, it is genius the design.

Vacheron Constantin 1003 movement with manual winding thin-10

Vacheron Constantin 1003 movement with manual winding thin

Usually if you have noticed the development of the movement, you can find most of the recent performance of a complex-oriented, performance up to more than 30 to modules stacked layers, so many movements are usually heavy performance. Some of the double-sided presentation, and more Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Triptyque for the display of three of its 19 kinds of performance, the Swiss R & D technology is amazing. In the thin part of the movement, the aforementioned Lemania's Cal.1210 and 2010 were a record manually on the chain and the thinnest self-winding movement, but is currently disabled. Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet in 1003 and 2003 is now used in the thinnest hand-winding movement, and the Earl of 1208P is the thinnest automatic movement.

Part of the tourbillon, the thinnest movement is the Audemars Piguet in 1986 launched the world's first self-winding tourbillon, its thickness is 3.3mm. I claim to have a long experience of wearing the watch, and the number of models. Naicao which watches, precision, or high failure rate, probably more than the average consumer to understand. I suggest not too often too thin to wear a watch daily, can be used to collection, enjoy; often choose to wear the watch in general thickness. Of course, not suitable for mechanical wear to play golf, or springs may be deformed after impact, affecting accuracy. The structure of the watch is extremely sophisticated, must be properly kept, collections, often long before, from generation to generation. At least, disposed to sell at a good price.

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