2012年1月2日星期一

Taboos: Gaultier Fashion Urchin

In 2010, there has always been "old elf," said the French designer Jean Paul Gaultier left the co-seven-year luxury brand Hermes. Since then, hold your breath for the fashion industry has been looking forward to his new work.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier's fashion Kingdom
November 13, 2011, a lecture entitled "Jean-Paul Gaultier's fashion empire" retrospective opening at the Dallas Museum of Art, the exhibition will continue until February next year, then another in San Francisco, Madrid and Rotterdam tour. The exhibition, organized by Montreal's U.S. media affairs (MMFA) planning ideas, fashion curator is the theme of the famous television producer Thierry Loriot. The exhibition, Loriot several roles, in addition to the selection model, the catalog interviews (including interviews with Madonna), he has more to dig the designer's background, and is responsible for co-operation between the museum and the brand. As a curator, Loriot, told reporters about her in the eyes of Jean-Paul Gaultier: "For the contemporary fashion trends, Gaultier is not very good. He likes unique, and often the idea of ​​a new design method of wearing apparel and he said he used an open mind to look at society as a whole, this sounds crazy, neurotic and even ridiculous, but in fact everyone can learn to explore their own personality. "
In the fashion industry, Gaultier is known as "no taboos designer", he is famous shocking art exhibitions, and design of any kind with his hands have become possible. In this exhibition, we can see his trademark tight-fitting jacket, and Kylie Minogue, Marilyn Manson, Mylène Farmer and other celebrities through a single product, even through clothing Leslie also show in the museum. In 1990, Madonna concert in the heart of Jin Faxiong put a golden shell conical bra, was a hit pair of red bra and now can be displayed, This is the first time since the concert.
Moreover, the exhibition also showcased Gaultier-designed clothes for many film sketches, including Peter Greenaway's film "cook, thief, his wife and her lover" (1994), Pedro Almodóvar's film "Bad Education" (2004 ) and Luc Besson film "The Fifth Element" (1997).
Gaultier is on, this exhibition can be said that most of his career in a show: "This is his life in the most exciting thing I have. Over the years, my works have also appeared in front in the museum to do fashion the exhibition is very challenging, I not only want to show work, but also to find ways to combine them interspersed. This exhibition and commercial, exhibition season, and T units are independent, it represents a kind of art, which is the pursuit of my life I the infinite love of these dynamic models, I like to listen to them talk, watching them move, they are very interesting. "

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"Only let your passion for success!"
Paris in Spring 2011 Fashion Week, Jean-Paul Gaultier presented as a farewell for HERMÈS designer. Leave their co-brand for seven years, he seems not the slightest hesitation, and have actually started to operate fully focus their own brand. Since then, hold your breath for the fashion industry has been looking forward to Gaultier's new work, and he let us down, introduced a series of well-designed and creative design, of course, including this exhibition. These are sufficient to prove that he return to the best.
2011 Winter Men series, Gaultier to idol hero James Bond-inspired, people familiar with the 007 heroes wear blond hair, wearing fishnet stockings, dressing as a blonde, this stunned the fashion world. He said: "I like to mix various elements, such as I will usually only occur in women in men's and women's printed with the design, or the classic combination of casual and elegant shape, such as casual wear. On Like obviously is a solemn and elegant jacket or skirt, its shape is Mo Yang pajamas, but do not misunderstand, as long as Jean-Paul Gaultier's exclusive style, even pajamas is elegant. "Then, such as the naughty child who he laughed.
Autumn and winter 2012 women's collection in the design, Gaultier tend to wear luxurious design, materials such as fur color felt coat, wild sweater, fur coat and so on. Seemingly innocent old woman as the model wearing a fluffy wig, dressed in a mature fashion. Appearance, the models were waved his hand, threw off his coat will be wearing the T station at the end of the pile of clothes. This has become a Fashion Week 2012 be remembered for the moment.
Speaking of women's design, Gaultier said: "It's like confrontation with the gene, I want you to look younger than actual age! If you actually born in the 1950s, I will make you look 20 years younger," Is it naive and immature age has become a new trend? I could not help but ask. "Yes, I will lead you back to childhood and adolescence, and we will live and dream like a child, and for me, means having the passion to do with dreams. Without passion, nothing is difficult to achieve there is passion everything is possible. "He was moved as a child-like dancing, eyes shining.
So, the head of gray hair models are also the embodiment of youth? For this problem, Gaultier shook his head: "You know earlier, gray hair is very popular, and even 20-year-olds liked the young girl wearing white wings, coated in white powder on the hair and I hope that the age blurring the line between, the different ages of the factors that combine fashion, in my opinion, no matter what age can be very fashionable, they can have a childlike innocence, have their own dreams. "
About the latest quarter trends, Gaultier also give some of my dress suggestions: "I recommend every woman a woman trousers suit provision, because they are easy to mix and make you look very feminine, but also with Point men's masculinity. you only need to remember that it is not to make you feel uncomfortable wearing clothes. I suggest that women who can also try to draw inspiration from a variety of cultures, whether it is classic styling, printing or Slavic folk mood or Asian pattern. anything is possible, but only if you are full of passion and only passion to make you successful! "

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Grandmother's prediction
Most people live a bland life, some people still keep their originality, they not only attempt to change the surrounding environment, and even want to change the world of ideas, Jean-Paul Gaultier is the case. That is how he do? The answer lies hidden in his childhood years.
Born in 1952 in France, Al Keyi of Gaultier was the only child, his parents in the accounting profession's hope he can become a teacher, before he tries to get rid of the adult parents of his influence. Think of the family, Gaultier is full of gratitude: "I have a variety of childhood, I was very happy I am in a loving family to grow up, my grandmother very much respect my ideas, whatever I want to do, she allow me to do. "Gaultier's grandmother Marie Garrabe is engaged in hypnosis and faith healing physician, she encourages Gaultier to design sketches and his clothes. In 1993, he launched his first perfume, the bottle from his own design, inspired by his designs for Madonna's Basque costume - in fact, this fashion design inspiration has come from his grandmother of memory. Gaultier large part of the process of growing together are spent with her grandmother, she was wearing tights left a deep impression.
However, Gaultier's childhood still have a little shadow. He reluctantly admits that she's a child to school. "I would be unhappy at school, because they thought I was the guy every day, daydreaming, but not good at football and other sports, so I always meet with their cold."
Childhood dreams alone can make him determined to become a fashion designer? It makes me some staggering. The face of my confusion, Gaultier said: "Grandmother let me watch TV, but also allow me to see people look at the big show one night, I saw the Folies Bergere's first show, female models were dressed in clothing mesh and feathers, I was impressed. So the next morning when I started school with imagination to draw that night to see everything. "That is why, in the latest women's show, after the girls have played off in the to coat, Gaultier said it was inspired by the strip, "as a surprise. They took off his clothes, which will have another so I can continue to show my clothes, that's why." He answered with a smile.
Gaultier in the painting school because teachers had been punished, when he had realized the painting of his influence. Punishment but also to find themselves in the Gaultier show potential. "I paint when the teacher caught. To punish me, he would paint my nails in my back, let me move in every classroom. The strange thing is the students did not make fun of me, on the contrary, they are very like my paintings since that day, they always begged me to draw something for them, I realized that my paintings and talent can bring happiness to others. "
The impact of Gaultier childhood career is far more than that. "-Year-old had never been seen, I watched Jacques Becker and grandmother's film" Fibulas ". This old film in 1940, takes place in a Paris boutique, about a young girl and named Philippe Clarence design between teacher story. The designer is a shameless, idle day To seek inspiration in the design, he always seduce a different woman, he did not pay any feelings, however, the girl let him first time I felt love. The film also shows the audience a clean-cut fashion world and it was inside the fashion show so I sprouted the idea of ​​fashion designers do. "
Gaultier's grandmother grandson who counted life. She predicted what? Whether these predictions have been achieved? "It's all achieved!" Gaultier said with a smile, "she told me that I have known one day, and accompanied by beauty every day, life was very pleasant and I will travel to many places these are all fulfilled." I asked him whether such skills learned from his grandmother that he heard laughing: "I am magic, subconscious, which may have feelings, but I am not interested in their research, which is why I only know that next season will show what happens, and humans can not be expected in the next century what will happen in other words, I am weak in this area, but next time I will try to meet once a magic show for you. "

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A fearless rebel
Recalled his 35 years walked the streets, Jean-Paul Gaultier is always full of emotion. Young Gaultier Fashion Institute did not read the book, and have not received formal training. All the way up to today, thanks to his self-taught. End of the school, he would send his sketches of different clothing stores and designers. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his painting, he decided to close an assistant. "In 1970, I began to Pierre Cardin along the way, the day happens to be my 18 birthday in style on the road, I never back down." Gaultier recalls.
Said, Pierre Cardin has been some criticism of Gaultier's work style, vulgar, it seems that does not affect Gaultier respect for the master. "Cardin is my mentor, Mr., when I was a child when the sects worship him, and now my achievements are thanks to his gift, so I will not make irresponsible remarks, he is a true master of the fashion industry and academics In fact, he does not like me to draw the sketch artists and musicians, which I can understand. Do not forget him and we are in a different era, he represents only his age only. that there will be no time character of an independent woman, but if our time is not Madonna and Lady Gaga, things will become very bad. "he said.
In Gaultier in his own name in 1976 released the first clothing line, he has worked in several French design company and as Jacques Esterel and Jean Patou and other fashion designers work. Until the 1980s, he gradually adapt to the non-mainstream youth culture in London. He transformed the casual wear, re-shaping the traditional design to create interesting and comfortable work. His fusion of classic and unusual elements of practice to make him gay community, love of fashion students and professional women is very popular.
The late 1980s, his eccentric style and exaggerated show unusual enabled famous models, including fat, slightly larger than the older female models, and the tattoo transvestites. He said: "If people do not like it, I'm not trying to save money without your top models in fact, I just want to explain all the fashion not only for the upper society, but also for all ordinary people. As a weight of 100 kg of model design clothes, than for those pretending to be more elegant fabric design models, but I like unusual things and I think the U.S. is not only a characteristic, harmony is the embodiment of beauty. a fat woman T stage can also be some bright spots, which I would like to see. "
In 1985, Jean Paul Gaultier designed his first men's shirts, he would like to take this shirt style men and women to break the boundaries. Autumn and winter series in 1988, he launched a clothing line called Vikings collection, male model wearing a short skirt, female appearance. This image of a legendary subject, and in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition. This is only his design career in just one of many exhibitions, but also once again proved his design style for a long time ago and highly respected.
The early 1990s, Gaultier began to create his classic image - drift over the blond blue and white striped T-shirt. In 1996, Pin Up Boys series hired a sexy gay sailors worship the image of the introduction of pink and blue Finnish style clothing, and quickly became the London, Paris and New York clubs in the dress trend. This series from each other unrelated to the royal family and Hasidic Judaism in India to draw inspiration, was a great success. Meanwhile, the family brought him a new job - HERMÈS hired him in 2003 as creative director. At the time Gaultier has a firm foothold in the industry, known as the fashion industry's "bad boy." His experience to give encouragement and inspiration to many followers, including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.
About the famous "bad boy" title, Gaultier said: "only in my area of ​​expertise, I'm the bad boy. In real life I am very quiet, very considerate, and in the fashion industry, not to the quiet character bring you any success, which is why I must become a fearless rebel. "

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